H&M Shares Surge on Progress Clearing Out Excess Inventory

Hennes & Mauritz AB shares rallied after the Swedish fast-fashion retailer made progress reducing a longstanding inventory buildup, leading to greater optimism profitability will improve.

(Bloomberg) — Hennes & Mauritz AB shares rallied after the Swedish fast-fashion retailer made progress reducing a longstanding inventory buildup, leading to greater optimism profitability will improve.

Operating profit fell less than analysts expected in the three months through May, helped by cost savings, the clothing retailer said Thursday. H&M said it’s on track to reduce inventory further after a 20% reduction to the lowest level since the Covid-19 pandemic. The stock rose as much as 20%, adding more than $4 billion to the company’s market value.

In her fourth year leading the retailer, Chief Executive Officer Helena Helmersson is finally making headway on reducing a pile of unsold clothes that has been plaguing the company since 2016. The retailer is also closing 200 underperforming stores this year and opening 100 in better locations. H&M said the spring-summer season has started well, with sales up 10% in June.

Low-cost clothing is luring shoppers as consumers suffer a cost-of-living crisis. Primark said earlier this week sales jumped 7% on a like-for-like basis in the three months through May. H&M has been offering ultralow prices on products such as $1.99 crop tops and $2.99 T-shirts as online upstart Shein undercuts its offerings.

“Buying power in general has decreased, but that also brings some opportunities for us,” Helmersson said at a press conference.

The company has been making savings with a plan to eliminate 1,500 jobs, and cost cuts should reach 2 billion kronor (185 million) on an annual level later this year. H&M is keeping its target of an operating margin of at least 10% next year, the CEO added. The last time profitability was that high was in 2017.

“It’s a challenging target, but we’re focusing on reaching it,” Helmersson said in an interview. “Double-digit is what we’ve been saying.”

 

The retailer keeps lagging competitor Zara — owned by Inditex SA — in popularity among fast-fashion shoppers, and both companies in turn have seen their market share under threat from Shein.

Helmersson said her goal to double revenue by 2030 is also a “very ambitious target” that could be reached through different brands and markets with growth potential like India and Latin America. “Firstly, we have to reach profitability, but we definitely need to show more in terms of growth going forward as well.”

The company is reducing costs as its contracts allow it to renegotiate or exit a third of its leases each year. The retailer now has about 4,400 shops, compared to a peak of 5,076 in 2019.

 

(Updates shares in second paragraph)

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